Chapter one · 0 to 18 m
Gold in the green.
Giant kelp stands twenty metres tall off Wembury Ledge and leans with every swell. Light falls through it in slabs, shoals hang in the fronds, and this is where most of our first-ever dives happen: gentle, warm in colour and busier than you would think.
Open Water course, four days
Chapter two · 30 to 40 m
A steamer called Marguerite.
She went down in 1917 and now lies listing on the shelf, boiler open to the sea, wheel half buried in the sand. A bib shoal circles her funnel. We dive her on slack water only, two dives a day, never more than twelve of us.
Wreck charter, from £780 a boat
Chapter three · 200 to 1,000 m
Blue, then a darker blue.
Below two hundred metres the sun gives up. Jellyfish rise out of the dark carrying their own light and the water turns a blue you normally only see in photographs. No diver comes here. Our submersible does.
Ride-along to 600 m, £1,950
Chapter four · 1,850 m
The lights come on.
Four degrees, no daylight at all and 185 bar of pressure on every window. Pelagos-1 settles on the silt, her floodlights open and her arm reaches for a glass sponge. A marine scientist takes the sample, and on an expedition you take the next one.
Science expeditions, from £540